So, wrapped up in many layers against the distinctly chilly 3 degrees we set off. This time we got the audioguide (which was excellent) and took the free tourist bus to the stones with the intention of walking back, which was actually quite nice!
There have recently been two excellent broadcasts about the stones on TV and radio, which I think was what prompted our interest. The "You're Dead to me" podcast from BBC sounds https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07qrwq7 and a Timewatch guide https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b06z59g7 which was fascinating because it showed archive footage of previous theories about the stones, and was as revealing about modern history and techniques as it was of ancient history.
Me and this ancient monument have an interesting history. When I was a child I was fascinated by it; excitedly peering through the car window whilst we drove past on our way to Cornwall (we never paid English Heritage entry fees to actually go in anywhere!). But then, as I got older I became rather bored by this structure that seemed rather overrated to me. It was just a few stones, you couldn't actually go in, at least with woodhenge you could walk inside it- and not nearly as spectacular as the stones of Carnac or the Great Pyramid!
But now I have changed my mind. I never realised that the reason it was unique was because it was the only stone circle to have mortice and tenon joints and lintels resting on top, and actually that's really clever!
I was also intrigued by the fact that the bluestones inside were thought to have healing powers and one theory is that pilgrims came to the henge as a kind of healing shrine. It turns out that they think that there were never pagan sacrifices there, because there is no evidence for them; no bones or bits left behind. What there is evidence for though, is lots of burials; ashes buried around the circle, and lots of burial mounds around the outside.
One theory now is that it was actually the midwinter solstice that was more important than the midsummer one for these ancient people, and this totally makes sense to me.
Imagine for an instant, that you are one of those ancient farmers. You have lost someone you love to this mysterious force of death, and life appears random and terrifying. The winter is dark and cold and you wonder if light or happiness will ever return to your world.
And then you visit this ancient circle, and you see structure and order, and you see light return to this dark world again and again and again, structured and predictable, and what it does is give you hope that the person whose ashes you buried might also have life once again. It gave you hope in the face of death and light in the face of emotional darkness.
And so it seems to me, writing from a Christian point of view, that this watching for the return of the sun is itself prophesy: A prophesy from two thousand years before Jesus was born that a different Sun/Son, the Son of God eternal, would return from death and would break the power of death forever for us, which is one of the main themes of this Advent season.
As it says in some of the Advent Antiphons, texts which were addressed to Christ and traditionally sung in the Evenings leading up to Christmas:
O Key of David,
opening the gates of God’s eternal Kingdom:
come and free the prisoners of darkness!
O Radiant Dawn,
splendor of eternal light, sun of justice:
come and shine on those who dwell in darkness and in the
shadow of death.
O Emmanuel, our King and Giver of Law:
come to save us, Lord our God!
